A Walk Through Tradition
Reading the structure of a Hinggi textile from Sumba is like wandering through a traditional Sumbanese house locally called Uma.
Hinggi are traditionally worn by a Sumbanese man as a hip cloth with a matching shoulder cloth. This cloth contains a structure similar to a Sumbanese house.
When one enters a Sumbanese traditional house, the steps are the first part of the house, visible from the outside. As one observes the structure of a Hinggi, the fringes are readily seen and referred to as rumata; which are what the steps leading to the house are called.
Uma, a traditional Sumbanese house.
Then Kabakil or the base of a traditional house welcomes you before you step up to the porch.
On a Hinggi cloth, the Kabakil is the woven section that separates the fringe from the cloth.
From here, you will encounter Talaba Wawa or the porch, which is also the name for the small band of ikat patterning at the base of the textile. Then we approach the Hawur or the central living area; also the name for the section where the large central motif is positioned.
Next is Talaba Dita, a small motif panel which separates the center and end panels.
At the center of the house is Huwur, where people gather.
Beautiful rumata and kabakil that resemble the steps and the base of Uma.
A closer look of kabakil, a word that has two meanings; the base of Uma and a woven section that separate the fringe from the cloth.
Above Huwur, is the essential part of a traditional house Uma, called Kunduduku. Kunduduku is located at the highest axis point of the house. It is where the Marapu resides and looks over the well-being of all its descendents. On a Hinggi textile, the Kunduduku is the part of cloth that is placed across kundu or shoulder. The reason for this placement is because the Marapu ancestors live in both the past and future realms; just as we glance over our shoulder behind us and turn to look forward.
A Hinggi is worn as a reminder to be aware that you bear the responsibility of carrying the knowledge from your ancestors into the present. Wearing a Hinggi, living in an ancestral Uma home, and being Sumbanese means one is always surrounded and guided by Marapu.
Warp ikat, commercial cotton, natural dyes. Ikat tied, dyed and woven in Sumba, 2022. 106 cm x 314 cm.
