Ancient Patterns of Trade

This spectacular three part handspun textile with uncut warp threads which in this village is called a kreot nai telon . It is an essential gift that accompanies marriage. The neighboring village calls this type of textile kwatek nai telo which have been sought after by textile collectors for centuries - especially old pieces. The remarkable quality is evidence that this art is still alive and that weavers continue to have the skill, desire and resources to make a textile such as this. Collectors would prefer we think these arts are finished - but this is evidence that this is not so. This textile took three years to complete, from spinning the thread to dyeing the threads with their precisely tied patterns repeatedly. The colors in this textile are an extraordinary example of the deep browns, rusts and indigo that make the south Lembata textiles so unique. A textile such as this sell for a high price on the island of Lembata as they are highly sought after for bride wealth gift exchange.

Textile offered to the grooms family by the brides clan are exchanged for horses, buffalo, silver or gold. The motif on this textile the weaver called patola which was found on Indian cloths that were traded centuries ago for spices and sandalwood. The weaver Doni who made this textile is a man who grew up as a woman and is not married. He devotes himself to the continuation of the weaving art as his mother would have wanted if she had had daughters. Doni also teaches young girls to spin thread, tie, dye and weave after school hours.

Information about the makers will be supplied with each cloth
Warp ikat, three panels sewn together into a tube with uncut warp ends, handspun cotton, natural dyes. Ikat tied, dyed and woven in Wulandoni, Lembata, 2022. Size 168 x 73 cm / 66 x 28.5 in