Geringsing Wayang Putri Most Prestigious Cloth
Geringsing Wayang Putri Most Prestigious Cloth
Geringsing Wayang Putri Most Prestigious Cloth
Geringsing Wayang Putri Most Prestigious Cloth

Geringsing Wayang Putri Most Prestigious Cloth


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This wayang putri is one of important ritual textiles of the geringsing textiles in Tenganan. It contains three full lubeng (cross cut of stupa) motifs and the incredible human-like wayang kulit shadow puppet figures.

Geringsing has become synonymous with double-ikat, the demanding process whereby warp and weft threads are ikat-dyed independently before weaving, such that the perpendicular patterns exactly coincide in the finished cloth. Geringsing, however, literally means "against sickness" . The textiles are considered magically protective and are used during Tengananese rituals as offerings or clothing. This textile is believed to be as a protective cloth.

The Geringsing textiles are made in the small village of Tenganan in east Bali. The weaving technique is very unique. Most textiles made in Indonesia have the pattern tied onto either the warp or weft threads. But Tenganan textiles are double ikat whereby both the warp (horizontal threads) and the weft (cross wise threads) are tied with the same pattern.

The threads are first mordanted or fixed before they are dyed. After the threads have been mordanted they are placed on both a warp and a weft tying frame. The pattern is then tied onto the threads. The pattern that will be white or red are tied and then the threads are sent to a nearby village. Tenganan has taboos against dyeing with indigo so they have always had a ritual relationship with the neighboring village of Bug Bug to dye their indigo threads. After the threads have been dyed deep blue the weaver puts the blue threads on the tying frame again and opens the ties that they want to dye red or deep black. The weaver then prepares the red dye. Areas that were blue and left open will turn black and areas that were white will turn red except for the white areas they want to keep white; they keep this area tied. The red dye contains the roots of the Morinda citrifolia tree and bark from a tree that contains aluminum called kapundung. Then the weaver takes the threads and opens all of the ties and begins to put them on a weaving loom. As she weaves she will pass the tied weft threads that contain the same pattern as the warp threads through the textile. Each warp and weft thread that carries the pattern is carefully picked into place with a sharpened cow bone.

A textile of very this quality can take more than 5 years to complete and is a true masterpiece of art.

Information about the makers will be supplied with each cloth.
Double Ikat, single panel, open fringe, handspun cotton, natural dyes. Ikat tied, dyed and woven in Tenganan, Bali, 2005. Size 232 x 55 cm / 91.5 x 21.5 in

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